Nikolaihof, Wachau Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel 2020


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“Steinriesler” is the archaic name for Riesling, adopted by the estate as an identity for long cask-aged wines of unexceptional ripeness. These will be very tiny quanities—bottles, not cases. The cask-aged one is like the very greatest sous-voile wine you ever drank. It’s more recherché than the ’99 or ’98, which were simply walnutty and estery. The regular Federspiel, basically the in-bottle version of the Steinriesler, is a perfect mature ’02, plummy and suave and lick-your-chops savory and salty. ~Terry Theise

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