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Nikolaihof is one of the oldest wine estates in Austria, whose history goes back almost 2000 years to the Roman empire. Organic, bio-dynamic winery whose wines express the earth, the whole earth and nothing but the earth. Nikolaihof’s wines are often incredibly thick, dense and uncompromisingly stony in character. They’ll do everything for you that great wine can do, if you are patient. Early on you’ll easily see their sheer intensity, but specific details can be lost in a monolith of concentration, an opacity that can be perplexing if you don’t know what’s ahead. Here you just stand on the prow and feel the wind and look at the swollen waves of vinosity and hope you aren’t swept overboard. And hope you are. . . .